Cut the hard stalk from the leaves carefully. Keep enough stalks to make ½ cup finely diced stalks.

Prepare a bowl with ice water. Heat a large pot of water until boiling. Take off heat and dunk in the leaves (not all at once). After 1–2 seconds, ; take out with a slotted spoon and immediately transfer to the ice water. Repeat until all leaves are blanched. Drain the leaves.

Heat the olive oil, add the finely diced stalks, rosemary and garlic and fry 2–3 minutes (or until soft). Add a pinch of salt and 1–2 grindings of pepper and transfer to a plate to cool.

Mix ricotta with lemon zest, stalks, Parmesan and pecans. Season to taste.

Carefully unfold leaves, pat dry and arrange on a board to make 4 “sheets” of roughly 6 by 6 inches (overlap torn or small leaves). Spoon ricotta mixture in the center of each sheet and fold leaves around it (use the palm of your hand to hold in place, folding the leaves over). Transfer to a plate with fold side down.

Up to this point, the stuffed chard can be made ahead of time. When ready to serve, heat water in a double boiler, place the stuffed chard in the top part and heat through (takes about 5 minutes). Great with roasted potatoes and sautéed mushrooms!

WINE PAIRING

Bending Branch Winery Tannat, Texas High Plains, Comfort, Texas. $30. bendingbranchwinery.com.