Texas Roussanne
By Stacey Ingram Kaleh | @txwinegirl Phot by Uplift Vineyards
Are you adventurous? Do you seek the complex and layered over the straightforward and familiar? If so, roussanne might be a wine with the qualities to romance you. It’s a radiant golden-white wine with both aromatic intensity and textural richness that offers a lot to explore for the wine drinker and the winemaker.
Here in Texas, roussanne still seems like a less familiar varietal. Yet it’s one that is attracting the attention of local winemakers who aren’t afraid to introduce us to this dynamic varietal and add it to their menus. In several Texas tasting rooms, roussanne has been described to me as a red-wine-lover’s white wine. So, Texas red lovers, rejoice! This is a wine that can be chilled and remains refreshing in the scorching summer months, while still offering a robust mouthfeel.
Roussanne can delight with aromas of ripe stone fruits such as pear and apricot and floral notes like honeysuckle and jasmine on the nose, and then indulge you with notes like honey, almond, apple, brioche, black tea and thyme on the palate. It typically has a medium weight and balanced acidity that allows for freshness and lift — aka easy drinking — and has great potential for aging.
Roussanne comes from the northern part of the Rhône Valley in France. It’s a centuries-old grape that’s one of the key varieties used in the production of white wines coming from Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph AOCs (designated geographic regions of origin with controlled and certified quality standards), and is often blended with marsanne, another white grape variety native to the region. In the southern Rhône, roussanne is a primary component in the white wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While relatively rare outside of France, roussanne is now grown in regions across the world, from Tuscany to Texas — and Texas may be poised to become one of the largest producers of the varietal outside of France, according to some of the Hill Country-based winemakers I spoke with.
Since roussanne shines on its own, plays well with other white varietals in blends and is delicious aged in oak barrels, steel tanks or a combination of the two, numerous expressions can be found at Texas wineries. All three winemakers I interviewed for this story — Jon Leahy at Becker Vineyards in Fredericksburg, Claire Richardson from Uplift Vineyards in Burnet and Benjamin Calais of French Connection Wines in Hye — highlighted this versatility as a quality that makes roussanne appealing to work with.
“Roussanne, I absolutely love. It does extremely well here … We make three different roussannes. They all taste like roussanne but they are three completely different roussannes,” says Leahy, who was recruited by Becker Vineyards in 2012 to make their wines after working in Napa and Sonoma counties in California. He feels he’s found a great home in the Texas Hill Country and is excited about the possibilities for Texas wine. “The fruit is just wonderful here, the grapes and the people, everything,” he says. “And I love, beyond anything, that Texans love to support Texans … People will support you if you make a great product.”
Leahy aims to make high quality wines with high quality Texas fruit. “You can make really bad wine from great fruit, but you can never make great wine from bad fruit, and there’s very little bad fruit in this state,” he says.
Becker Vineyards currently offers three roussannes — two with grapes sourced from the High Plains and one from the Hill Country — and an award-winning and super refreshing “RVM” roussanne-viognier-marsanne blend. They also have plans to plant roussanne on the Becker estate.
Leahy’s approach to roussanne requires intention and patience. He ages the wine in oak barrels for at least 24 months to capture the flavor of the grapes. Some roussannes are also aged in steel tanks as part of their development. The team at Becker leaves the wine on its lees for the entirety of its life, which gives it antioxidant protection. That creates a “reductive atmosphere” without oxygen, which preserves roussanne’s floral notes and positions the wine for long-term preservation in the bottle. You can store it for 10 or more years and still enjoy its innate qualities.
Becker is in the process of expanding its 66-acre Fredericksburg vineyard through a six-year planting initiative. While they already have an extensive and highly regarded portfolio of 44 different wines, they’re committed to doing what works well while continuing to challenge the status quo. “Life would be so boring if you didn’t keep experimenting. You never know where the next ‘Aha!’ moment is going to come from,” Leahy says. This planting initiative puts Becker Vineyards on track to become the largest producer of estate wines in Texas.
“Wine is not a spectator sport or an individual sport,” Leahy emphasizes as he talks about the dedication of Bekcer’s partners and large team, from the assistant winemaker to the cellar master, from outreach staff to the farmers around the state. Leahy recalls an article he read that estimated it takes an average of 33 people to deliver a glass of wine to you. It’s a statistic that has stuck with him. He emphasizes that when you support Texas wine, you support Texas farmers and their families, and a lot of other neighbors, too.
Rhône variety-focused French Connection Wines in Hye is another winery that champions Texas farmers and grapes. Winemaker and co-owner Benjamin Calais, who also owns Calais Wines, began making roussanne in the early 2000s. He prefers sourcing roussanne made from Tablas Creek clones (Tablas Creek Vineyards in Paso Robles, California brought high-quality roussanne clones to the U.S.) grown in high-elevation (3,200 feet-plus) vineyards like those in West Texas mountains, High Plains and Dell City. The climate in those regions contributes to slower maturation of the grapes, which helps preserve their acid and makes for a delightfully complex palate.
This complexity is part of what makes roussanne so versatile and allows it to really showcase a winemaker’s mark. “It’s an interesting variety to work with. It’s a tricky variety. And it’s a blank canvas for winemakers,” Calais explains. His roussanne at French Connection is distinct from Leahy’s at Becker, especially when it comes to mouthfeel. “We’re going to try to keep as much texture as possible,” says Calais.
French Connection Wines has been making roussanne for 15 years and makes a roussanne Reserve every five years or so. They currently offer a 2020 roussanne Reserve and use the varietal as the lead in their signature La Connection white blend. Calais prefers a heavier-style roussanne, closer to what he calls its “home style,” and ages roussanne on its lees for 12 to 18 months in neutral French oak barrels. The Reserve roussanne sits in French oak for about three years. “We don’t always make roussanne the same way, because we understand there’s a lot of different ways we can execute,” says Calais, who believes in adapting his winemaking approach to the grape and its particular yield.
Calais, who moved from France to the U.S. for a job in computer engineering, refers to his winemaking journey as a “weekend project that got out of hand.” But now he is in it for the long-haul and envisions building wineries that make some of the best wines around. “We make wines we like to drink and that are age-worthy. And we take our time doing it,” he shares. Unfettered by many of the obstacles wine makers and growers face and unafraid of the time-consuming winemaking processes, he’s focused on a “practice-makes-perfect” approach.
“It’s very important to make wine every year … If you want to get better at it and make the best wine you can, you have to make it every year,” Calais explains. His team will hone in on a varietal and fosters long-term relationships with growers. That laser-focus allows them to work with a grape again and again until they “get it perfect,” making roussanne a varietal that is ideal for Calais and his team. It is reliable, with vines consistently producing great grapes. It allows them a “shot at making the wine every year,” which is part of its appeal. It’s a variety that Calais believes will be produced and enjoyed in Texas for many years.
Claire Richardson, winemaker at Uplift Vineyards in Burnet, part of the William Chris Vineyards family of brands, also appreciates roussanne’s reliability. She says that roussanne thrives in our heat and abundance of sunshine. “Climate and weather patterns are two of the biggest challenges of growing grapes in Texas, so to have a grape that can flourish in the conditions we have is a win-win for growers and drinkers,” she says.
According to Richardson, the team at Uplift take a unique approach to growing roussanne. Half of the acreage she works with is situated on a hillside and the other half is on flat ground at the bottom of the hill. The two sections are usually harvested at different times. “The hillside fruit ripens faster and will often be harvested at a higher Brix level [which is a measure of sugar content],” she explains. “The finished wine is characterized by the riper roussanne aromatics of honeycomb and brioche and has a more viscous mouthfeel. Contrary to that, the flat portion of the block produces fruit that is more nuanced, with slightly higher acidity and more delicate aromatics.”
Richardson likes the opportunities for personal expression that this approach provides. “The beauty of harvesting this block in two sections is that I end up having multiple components to work with … The two sections of the block are harvested, fermented, and aged separately until it comes time for blending,” she shares.
Like Leahy and Calais, Richardson is attracted to the chameleon-like quality of roussanne. In the cellar, she employs a variety of fermentation and aging vessels, yeast strains, and winemaking techniques to steer the grape’s versatility into exciting vintages. She primarily ferments and ages roussanne in oak barrels, with the use of 5 to 10 percent new French oak. This July, Uplift Vineyards plans to release a 2023 roussanne and 2023 Lou Adah, a roussanne-Marsanne blend.
Roussanne seems to be gaining traction with Texas wine enthusiasts as more people are trying it when they visit local wineries. “People are gravitating toward roussanne, and they are getting to try it and know it here in Texas,” says Leahy, who points out that we have more single-varietal roussanne offerings in Texas than you can find on the West Coast.
“In the last few years, roussanne has gained popularity among consumers in Texas for its texture, complexity, and availability,” says Richardson. “As a lesser-known varietal, it is our job as growers and winemakers to educate our consumers about varieties like roussanne that are well-adapted to our climate and that are delicious, too.”
If it’s your first time trying roussanne, make it a Texas roussanne. There’s no better place to figure out what you like. The laid-back culture of Texas tasting rooms allows you to feel at home and the staff are happy to share their expertise in a way that’s fun and welcoming.
“Wine should not be an intimidating thing,” says Leahy, who encourages us to view wine not as a luxury item but as a way to celebrate life’s daily victories. He says the only two questions we need to answer when it comes to the wine we drink are “Do you like it?” and “Would you have another glass?”
When it comes to Texas roussanne, my own answers are yes and a resounding yes.
PERFECT PAIRINGS
Try a Texas roussanne with these bites and entrées.
Becker Vineyards winemaker Jon Leahy loves pairing roussanne with Mediterranean-style grilled chicken and veggies, lobster bisque and wood-fired mushroom pizza. Becker’s Marketing, PR, and Outreach Director Nichole A. Bendele, who is WSET Level 2 Certified, recommends sipping on roussanne as a companion to sauteed scallops and wild rice or Peruvian-style ceviche.
If you’re looking for something lighter to snack on, you can’t go wrong with a crudité and hummus spread. Add roussanne, and you’re ready for a vibrant and refreshing summer picnic!
WHERE TO ENJOY
Sip on a glass or pick up a bottle of roussanne or a roussanne blend at these Texas wineries:
Ab Astris
320 Klein Road
Stonewall, TX 78671
abastriswinery.com
@abastriswinery
Becker Vineyards
464 Becker Farms Road
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
beckervineyards.com
@beckervineyards
Duchman Family Winery
13308 Ranch to Market Road 150
Driftwood, TX 78619
duchmanwinery.com
@duchman_family_winery
French Connection Wines
1197 Hye-Albert Road
Hye, TX 78635
frenchconnectionhye.com
@frenchconnectionwines
Haak Vineyards & Winery
6310 Avenue T
Santa Fe, TX 77510
haakwines.com
@haakwinery
Hilmy Cellars
12346 E. U.S. Highway 290
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
hilmywine.com
@hilmywine
Hye Meadow Winery
10257 W. U.S. Highway 290
Hye, TX 78635
hyemeadow.com
@hyemeadow_winery
Kuhlman Cellars
18421 E. U.S. Highway 290
Stonewall, TX 78671
visit.kuhlmancellars.com
@kuhlmancellars
Llano Estacado Winery
3426 E. FM 1585
Lubbock, TX 79404
Llanowine.com
@llanowine
McPherson Cellars
1615 Texas Avenue
Lubbock, TX 79401
Mcphersoncellars.com
@mcphersoncellars
Meierstone Vineyards
573 Meier-Stone Road
Stonewall, TX 78671
meierstonevineyards.com
@meierstonevineyards
Pedernales Cellars
2916 Upper Albert Road
Stonewall, TX 78671
pedernalescellars.com
@pedernalescellars
Perissos Vineyard and Winery
7214 Park Road 4 W.
Burnet, TX 78611
perissosvineyards.com
@officialperissosvineyards
Siboney Cellars
3427 W. U.S. Highway 290
Johnson City, TX 78636
siboneycellars.com
@siboneycellars
Signor Vineyards
362 Livesay Lane
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
Signorvineyards.com
@signorvineyards
Texas Heritage Vineyard
3245 U.S. Highway 290 E.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
texasheritagevineyard.com
@texasheritagevineyard
Texas Wine Collective
10354 U.S. Highway 290 E.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
texaswinecollective.com
@txwinecollectivefbg
Torr Na Lochs Vineyard & Winery
7055 W. State Highway 29
Burnet, TX 78611
Torrnalochs.com
@torrnalochs
Uplift Vineyard
William Chris Wine Co.
1411 County Road 119
Burnet, TX 78611
upliftvineyard.com
@upliftvineyard
Wedding Oak Winery
316 E. Wallace Street
San Saba, TX 76877
6009B U.S. Highway 290 E.
Fredericksburg, TX 78624
229 S. Pierce Street
Burnet, TX 78611
weddingoakwinery.com
@weddingoakwine
