Mannasama (meaning “manna from heaven”) or gazo, as it is known in the city of Sulaymaniyah (in the northeast of Iraq), is a traditional Iraqi dessert. In the Old Testament, manna is described as being “a fine, flake-like thing” like the frost on the ground, arriving with the dew during the night. It is thought that manna comes from the sap or lichen of a tree native to the region, likely the Tamarix aphylla.
This chewy, fragrant nougat is stuffed with pistachios or walnuts, infused with cardamom, covered in flour and presented in a wooden box by confectioners who dot downtown Salim Street. Sulaymaniyah (Suli, for short) has cornered the market on this divine dessert, but its popularity is widespread throughout the country.
On a trip to an international humanitarian compound in Kirkuk, about an hour west of Suli, my gracious host arranged an Eid dinner with local and international staff—a rare opportunity to meet those who live in this microcosm of Iraq. Kirkuk is a city where Arabs, Turkmen, Kurds and Christian Chaldeans intermingle, often with tension. But on one point they all agree:
“We all know mannasama,” said my host. “Everyone in Iraq, even the expats, agree it’s the most heavenly dessert on earth.”
In a country as divided as Iraq, one pauses to consider the pride and unity this mildly sweet treat inspires. Mannasama, in many ways, unites the diverse tapestry of different peoples in a consensus over its deliciousness.
Ingredients
- ½ cup granulated sugar
- 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed
- ⅓ cup water (boiling)
- 1 teaspoon butter
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- ¼ cup water
- 2 egg whites
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
- ¼ cup (2 ounces or 50 grams) butter
- 1½ cups toasted nuts (pistachios, walnuts, almonds or pecans)
- 2 tablespoons rose water (optional)
- flour
Preparation
Dissolve the sugars in boiling water with butter and vanilla in a shallow pot, stirring from time to time. Let a thick syrup form (to test it, place a drop in a glass of water; a ball should form).
While the syrup is cooking, whip the egg whites until firm. Pour ¼ of the syrup over the egg whites and continue whipping. Add the rest of the syrup to the egg whites and keep whipping.
Fold the cardamom, butter, nuts and rose water, if preferred, into the mixture.
Spread the nougat mixture into a flat pan that is greased and floured. Leave standing (not in the fridge) for 12 hours or longer.
Cut into small squares; dip in flour to keep them from sticking. The soft nougat will keep for days in a cool place. Traditional mannasama is covered in flour and presented in a wooden box.
About this recipe
Recipe adapted from Delights from the Garden of Eden by Nawal Nasrallah.
